Foundations For Handling for Novice and Restricted

Post questions about training here to draw on the collective knowledge of the bulletin board members!

Moderator: Peter Butterfield

Foundations For Handling for Novice and Restricted

Postby Robert Tawton » Fri 20 Feb 2004 12:39 pm

Hi All,

As a bi-product of my Discussion Paper, entitled Guidelines for Judges, I received a Private E-mail asking, “What is a reasonable degree of separation between a Mark and a Blind at Restricted Stake level, especially if the Blind is to be retrieved first?”
An exchange of e-mails then ensued, the up-shot of which was the suggestion that I post some of my advice on this website:

The following list is not all inclusive, but in my experience the key steps in teaching a dog to handle are:
1. Conditioning the dog to the whistle.
2. Simple three handed casting drills – teaching left & right overs and left& right hand backs.
3. Next comes 4, 8 & 16 handed lining drills (also known as wagon wheels).
4. Then 8 handed casting drills.
5. Single and double “T” and modified double “T”
6. Run-by and Swim-by – teaching a dog to handle with a dummy in its mouth instead of always returning directly to the handler.
7. Taught or memory blinds without diversions and then with diversions.
8. Cold blinds without factors followed by cold blinds with factors – wind, angle entry into water, remote entry into water, side hills, diversions etc.

Consider Step 1.
The process by which one obtains an almost Pavlovian response to the “Stop” and “Come In” commences when the pup is just 49 days of age. Initially it is linked to meal times with the “come” and then “sit” whistles. Later, it is reinforced with food rewards and in some stubborn cases the dog may have to be put on a rope to ensure compliance. At the end of the day, it is an ongoing challenge that continues for a life time and regular maintenance is often required.

Consider Step 2..
In a 4, 8 & 16 handed lining drills we are seeking to teach a dog the mechanics of moving at the Firing Point and to take a line to a nominated dummy. Starting with a circle of 25 to 30m in radius, place four dummies symmetrically spaced on its circumference i.e. there is a 90 degree separation between the dummies. With the handler and dog in the centre of the circle and always turning clockwise, line the dog to each of the dummies. Repeat the whole exercise, but this time by always turning anticlockwise (remember you are also working on the mechanics of moving the dog at the FP).

The next phase is to advance to having 8 dummies symmetrically spaced around the circumference of the circle i.e. with a 45 degree separation. Immediately after the dog retrieves the nominated dummy it is replaced before turning to the next dummy. Eventually you can advance to the 16 dummy configuration i.e. with a 22.5 degree separation. The test to see if the dog has mastered the concept, and the moving mechanics, is when you can pick up all 16 dummies in random order with both your hands in your pockets apart from actually taking delivery and flipping the dummy back to its original place on the circumference of the circle. You are limited to only using verbal commands of sit, here & heel or whatever you use to move the dog.

The final step is where you establish two concentric circles, one with a radius of 25-30m and the other with a radius of 45-55m. Eight white dummies are symmetrically placed on the circumference of the inner circle and 8 orange dummies are placed on the circumference of the outer circle such that the lines to orange dummies pass mid-way between the gaps separating inner circle white dummies. The colour orange is chosen because dogs are colour blind and so the dummies are partially invisible to them. Now pick up (and replace) all the orange dummies. In other words, the dog must run between two white dummies in order to retrieve the nominated orange dummy. Variations include, picking up all the white dummies followed by all the orange dummies, or by alternating one white then one orange.

The drills described above are well within the capabilities of most 10 to 12 month old pups.

Consider Step 6
This is achieved by placing three dummies at a common “cold” blind location. Run the cold blind and pick up the first dummy. Now flip the dummy you have just picked-up out a distance of about 25 -30m and about 15-20 degrees off line. Retrieve this “mark” then run the blind picking up the second dummy from the original pile. Now flip another dummy off line to land as close as possible to where the previous “flip” landed. Now, run the blind followed by the Mark. Over time the “mark” can get closer and closer to the line to the blind.

A widely accepted criterion for measuring how well a dog is holding its line is to extend one arm horizontally and spread your first two fingers as much as possible.
With the target destination aligned with the centre of the gap between your two extended fingers, the aim is to keep your dog within the gap at all times i.e. within 4 degree corridor!

I hope everyone can follow all the above and please do give it a try!
Furthermore, it is against this background that I think that a 45 degree separation between a Mark and a Blind in a Restricted Stake is more than generous. If I haven’t convinced you, or you have any further please do not hesitate to contact me.

Kindest regards, RWT
Robert Tawton
 
Posts: 319
Joined: Mon 17 Nov 2003 9:51 am
Location: Canberra,ACT,Australia

Postby Mark Sewell » Fri 20 Feb 2004 11:33 pm

Robert

I really appreciate all of the training advice that you freely put into this forum. As a newcomer I find it most valuable.

Take care

Mark
Mark Sewell
 
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat 19 Apr 2003 12:26 am
Location: Sorrento WA

training from earlier days

Postby Peter Betteridge » Mon 01 Mar 2004 9:19 pm

Bob
thankyou for posting such informative and detailed training information.I think the sport will benefit from your generousity in sharing your knowledge.I sense that much of the modern training techniques are a bit daunting to new triallers and I was wondering if you would share with us the process with which you trained Homer and Chasa. I understand that you have progressed as a trainer since those days but they were both successful dogs in their time.My experience is that soft dogs with only moderate drive get burned out in the yard,and it takes a very skillful trainer to get them thru.Obviously beginners in our sport dont yet have the experience to make that happen effectively.Old fashion methods may still be relevant for certain types of trainers and dogs.What are the biggest differences between the way you trained in 1990 and the way you train today?
Peter Betteridge
 
Posts: 436
Joined: Fri 20 Sep 2002 2:36 pm
Location: east lindfield sydney


Return to Training Q&A

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests

cron