by Bob Pickworth » Tue 11 Oct 2005 5:34 am
Edwina, I am only a mug and I'm sure there will be many other responses with more efficient methods from many more expereinced handlers than I, however my dog will go back. However, there is another issue for you that you raised about decoys.
I think it is worth teaching "leave it", when you begin retrieving with any pup as this is necessary in the field to "leave" a poison bird or decoy. I wouldn't be teaching this at the same time as BACK" and you should probably have this taught first - if you haven't already.
Anyway, the way I taught her "BACK" was quite simple. I threw some "happy bumpers" or "free throws", where the dog is just given a dummy or bumper and immediate fetch (in order to create drive and interest). I then put her in a stay, threw a bird (bird is usually of greater interest than a dummy), heeled her around facing away from the bird, which is now behind her, took a few steps backwards away from the dog (and the bird, which is behind the dog). Then give the command "BACK". - lots of encouragement if she doesn't go immediately, which mostly will happen. Then just lenghten the distances.
Next place the dog in a stay and throw the dummy behind the dog, walk back (20 paces or more) and giving the hand signal and command "BACK".
Next (a week or so, or more, depends on your dog), place a pile of blind dummies out (where dog can't see them) but don't put too much distance between the dog and dummies, and send "BACK" with lots of encouragement. I don't use food as a reward, as I find the dummy is my dogs reward/motivation.
To cast, put dummies in different locations and give command "OVER" if left or right and give hand signals in that direction. and "BACK" if to go backwards.
Really isn't that hard. (until your'e at a trial).
Regards,
Bob